08 April 2007

The White Heron

Himeji Castle is known as "The White Heron" for its distinct white walls that anyone can see from far away. "The Last Samurai" was filmed there, as are many samurai movies both past and present that need something to stand for Edo Castle, which doesn't exist anymore.
With Colleen's quick mind in getting the last batch of "Seishun 18" tickets, she, myself and Ingram went to Himeji for 2000yen as opposed to 4420yen last Thursday. The sky was clear and a bit cold; but as you rounded up the castle grounds in the spiral deisgned for defenses it got warmer, probably from exertion. Unlike Osaka Castle, which is a concrete modern reproduction, Himeji Castle is an authentic (restored, but authentic still) castle from the Tokugawa period. That said, when we finally reached the main tower, we had to take our shoes off and climb the 6 flights of old, narrow, death-calling steps (I have said that I have a fear of stairs, more acute in old ones which is ironic because I like old buildings) to the top of the main tower.

Of course, it was the height of cherry blossom season and for a Thursday it was damn crowded. There were recorded announcements in Japanese and English saying that the main tower was very crowded and to please pay attention to the guards. The cherry blossoms were a main draw: cherry blossoms practically have their own religion and cult following in Japan, to the point that you see signs such as these around the castle grounds in cordoned off areas near the picnic-ers:Literal translation of the sign: "The cherry blossoms are tired, let's give them a little rest."

Implied translation of the sign: "Step on the ground near these cherry blossoms, and we will slice out your entrails."

We were on the grounds of a samurai castle, after all.