Trick or Treat!

Yesterday was Halloween, but I celebrated in on Saturday, the 27th. In the morning, I to Osaka since it was a good opportunity to hang out with Emi in her neck of the woods. We usually hang in Kyoto, but I want to go to Osaka more. Plan was lunch, then shop. Shopping will become VERY crucial as you will see.

First, I had an appointment in a section of Osaka known as "Universal City." Where Universal Studios Japan is located. Seriously, the minute I walked out of the JR Station (where I rode a train festooned with Spiderman) I felt like I just got off the monorail to the Magic Kingdom. And I KNOW the Magic Kingdom.

I felt so odd, so out of place. It was noisy and well...AMERICAN. It was Orlando, with Japanese subtitles. And instead of some tacky old-school Florida museum, we have the Takoyaki Musuem. The Grilled Octopus Museum. And since this IS Japan, there is a mascot whom I call Mr. Takoyaki and he is bloody cute. (P.S. takoyaki is delish. It's a Kansai thing, so you can't find it in Tokyo, as far as I know).

After leaving Orlando - erm, I mean Universal City, Osaka - I met up with Emi at the Shinsaibashi Apple store. I got there a bit early, so I fondled the new Nano's, which I haven't had the change to ogle properly yet. Lunch at a Mexican restuarant which was amazing, and then shopping at Uniqlo. While we were in the NOISY shopping arcade (I wanted to cover my ears), Emi and I passed by a Sanrio store. Scary, but cute. There was this HUGE Hello Kitty doll.

Apologizing to Emi for making her take this picture, I stood next to Kitty-chan and grinned.

Uniqlo is in NYC now and I actually didn't check it out when I was back home. However, if it's like how it is here - GO,GO,GO my fellow New Yorkers!!! Where else can you get quality pima cotton long sleeves to TEN DOLLARS? Their cashmere is quite nice too. And $20 merino sweaters in amazing jewel tones. I got 4 shirts and a straw Ralph Lauren/J.Crew-ish belt for just 500yen. That is less than 5 bucks.

I had to leave early to get ready for the Halloween party. I get back, realize I don't have much time to get dressed and proceeded to put on my Zara dress. Then I notice something: a small tear in the bust of the dress. I got SO mad and actually sad aloud, "*&$%#@ this!" Took the dress off (thank god the tag was still on, I never take tags off till I actually wear it), tossed it in the corner and looked in my cupboard. I needed to think of a costume. And FAST.

Lo and behold, thank god I dress preppy. And that I went shopping at Uniqlo. And got my vintage Chloe purse. And got a gold headband with a bow. And have (fake) pearls. And red lipstick.

I went as "French Riviera Chick from the 50's." Smoky eyeshadow and red lipstick, and ready to go! Uniqlo proved VERY important because all I had to do was look at the belt I got and the lightbulb turned on in my head. Below, is me strutting my stuff in our party's "Kyoto's Next Halloween Top Model Contest", looking my chic-y best:

Some of the girls complemented on my outfit, said I should dress more like this and that I embodied the whole French Riviera thing. Well, at least not too cartoonish, maybe. Secret: that "pin" is actually an earring that I stole from my mom - I saw it in her jewelry box poring over her 80s costume jewelry that is now "in," saw it and thought it would make a great pin.

I now have confidence to tuck in my shirt in that particular skirt - there is a bow that ties in the back and you sort of tuck your shirt in but I never do because I feel a bit self-conscious about the lower half of me.

Nonetheless the party was a blast. We all said it was better than going to a club - lot cheaper, no one smokes and we invite who we wanted to so no skeevy people either. Plus, no cover charge. We were all sore for the next two days because we were dancing so much. And we all plan to do it again - NO ONE complained about the music, and we had it quite loud.

Alas, I didn't win the contest. Wolverine did. His claws were out.

Faulty Plastic

So I go to the Apple Store in Osaka. I got onto a local train after my koto lesson and realizing that I might not making it in time for my appointment so I called Ingram who was luckily at home and rescheduled my Concierge appointment. Turns out I was able to connect to a rapid train and actually arrived at 6pm. However, I still had to wait a bit. No problem.

Turns out, the reason why I had to wait was because there is a Genius at the Genius Bar that actually spoke fluent English. I had a sense of this in Apple Ginza, because there was actually a foriegner working at the store. I was a bit surprised to say the least and maybe a little perplexed and ticked off? Me being foriegner sometimes equals `no speak Japanese` so people get into a tizzy.

However, in the case of Apple no one went into a frenzied tizzy that was visible at least, and that I appreciated. I even told the guy I was prepared to go over the problems with my MacBook in Japanese, since he saw me write my address in kanji. That is what gets them - when Japanese people see me write my address in full kanji and in the proper Japanese way then they realize that yes, I do speak Japanese and yes I live here. Interesting thing is, all my information on my MacBook is in their system, and I got the laptop in the United States.

So problem 1 - the piece broke off the palm rest. Problem 2 - I got the first generation MacBook and people complained that the palm rests got dirty too fast. Apple finally recognized that it was a faulty part and not the consumers fault; I asked the Genius if Apple Japan does that too and he sad yes. I had been meaning to call Apple or go to Apple OSaka about that problem but it just seemed so nit-picky that I didn`t really bother. So in a way, that piece breaking off was a blessing in disguise.

Problem 3 - the part surrounding my screen was a little dirty where the magnets in the lid were...in sum, all of the plastic on the keyboard and surrounding the screen was faulty. It was even starting to pop off on the lower left hand corner, which I suddenly realized as I saw the side of my laptop.

I didn`t even need my Apple Care because my laptop was still in warranty (so maybe I jumped the gun when I got it? Oh well, better be safe than sorry) so I did`t have to pay for a thing. Except maybe train fare. Genius and I talked a bit about the weather in Japanese, and he complemented on my desktop wallpaper which was a photo of Santorini (a very belated thanks to Libby as I downloaded it off her Flickr). He even laughed at the name of my hard drive, which was `Ringo` - written in hiragana.

No laptop for a week. I got Chen`s library card so that I can use the Kyodai library when I am not at Rits (seriously, too far and it is actually CLOSED on Sundays) and my user id still works on the computers which is good because I have to prepare for my presentation soon.

But on the bright side, Apple is going to to a whole system check as well, and I practically get a brand-new looking computer. Apple always does hard drive checks; when my sister brought in her PowerBook because a piece of the plug got stuck in the socket to charge her battery, sure she had to pay about $200 (because she doesn`t have Apple Care, I think she has it now) but got a whole new motherboard and hard drive because when they checked the hard drive, Apple discovered that there was something wrong that was undetectable (I think it was the way the hard drive/motherboard was mounted in the computer), leading to a possible total breakdown of the computer that would be totally unrepairable - or cost a sh*tload of money. So she practically got a new computer for $200.

In other Apple news, the iPhone came out. Obviously, just in the States so the only hype I see is from the news, but personally I might get the Helio Ocean when I go back to the States. Its cheaper, has 3G and is from a South Korean cell phone company. South Korean cellphones are amazing - you can even watch live tv with them and its the same in Japan.

Woman In Black

Every hear of the infamous "Black American Express" card? You know, the one that supposedly comes in its own chaffeured (sp?) limousine and in a black box and is only for the people that spend on their original Amex's over $250,000 a year?

You do get your own personal concierge with direct email and phone in addition to other perks that I have no use of. I just look foward to the day when I can go to J.Crew and maybe buy a sweater without having to wait for a sale. However, I know that even if that day comes, I will still wait for the sale.

I wonder, how someone in Japan could get such a card especially when alot of the retailers don't accept credit cards and when they do, it's not usually American Express. Then again, those kinds of people shop at Gucci, Apple Store, Prada, Louis Vuitton (biggest market for the company outside of France is Japan), Hermes, etc. etc. without batting an eye.

The Black one has always remained elusive. That is, until yesterday:

I met up with Mayuko at the Apple Store in Osaka's Shinsaibashi area and proceeded to decide upon the orange iPod shuffle (more burnt orange than citrusy orange) after multiple incidents with triggering the alarm on those things. We then ate ramen (YUMMY, kimchi!) and walked around the arcades. Shinsaibashi is my new favorite shopping area and probably one of the very few places that I like in Osaka.

We ended up at Zara - I always knew that they had sales going on and I just wanted to see what they had on offer since that was one of the very few stores in Japan (the second being the Gap and the third maybe Uniqlo) that would have stuff in my size. Lo and behold, they list the American sizes in addition to the Japanese. I found the perfect spring coat that fulfilled my "Audrey Hepburn" requirements: short, interesting buttons and 3/4 sleeves. I will wait on it though and see what there is to offer in Korea.

I did find a pair of capri leggings on sale - I needed a new pair - and this long, light airy scarf that feels like a cotton-silk blend. Original price: 6200 yen. I paid: 945 yen. Awesome. I am starting to like Zara very much - it has changed alot from when I first stepped into one of the many Zara's in Athens back in 2002.

While I was looking for a register, I saw something in the little tray that they use here to put the money:

the black American Express. The Centurion American Express. In retrospect, I wonder if its the titanium version, since they only introduced those last year.

The amount shown charged on the cash register?

61,000yen. That is about 600 dollars.

The person who owned the card and charged all that money?

A middle-aged woman dressed all in black. complete with the Chanel earrings, fake Hermes Kelly bag, real Louis Vuitton wallet, hot-pink pimped out cellphone, fake hair scrunchie, and the hideous Japanese manicure (where they glue on rhinestones in addition to the glitter nailpolish). Even Mayuko remarked that she was too old to be pulling stuff off like that, and shopping at Zara to boot.

Then again, Japan is the home of Princess Tenko, nee TMariko Itakura - the illusionist whose passport Kim Jong-Il once siezed during a visit to Korth Korea because he obsesses over her - who is obligated to "look like 24 forever," as per her contract with Mattel (yeah the same ones who own Barbie). She started performing in 1977 as a teenager, and was born in 1959. It's now 2007. Do the math and you see another example of Japan's youth obsessed culture.

I'm a Survivor, I'm a Blowfish Eater

On a normal, day it takes me about 15 to 20 minutes to get to Kyoto Station. I love the fact that I live right next to two really convenient bus lines. The 206 takes me to Kyoto Station. The 201 takes me to Shijo-Kawaramachi.

But on Thursday (Happy Turkey Day to all!!) it took me an HOUR to get to Kyoto Station. Don't ask me why. I saw alot of people walking around and alot of people at temples; the 206 goes past Yasaka Jinja in Gion, Kiyomizu-dera and Sanjusangendo-dera.

Seriously! What is up with the people in the streets and the temples/shrines? I know that 11/23 was Labor Thanksgiving Day but do they take something like that that seriously in Kyoto? There is always some holiday or festival here, so I have no clue. It's a year long party here.

I got to the Hilton Osaka (where Colleen's mom was staying before heading onto Kyoto) and met up with Colleen. The Hilton is NICE. It beats the regular American Hiltons, hands down. The view was great and in the Excutive Lounge, they had free aperitifs, and little desserts with Moet & Chandon champagne, the whole nine yards. And, the whole hotel was decked with all the boughs of holly that Osaka had to offer. Really nice Christmas Trees.

So, I met Colleen's mom (awesome, nice lady) and we all trooped off for turkey. We went to Tin's-Hall (a DAMN fine bar, according to their website) which had the turkey dinner; unfortunately, the pumpkin pie ran out. It was a total gaijin place, but not as sketchy as I thought. They had COSTCO sized FRENCH"S mustard! The food was good, albeit the potatoes were cold and I wished there was more gravy. Oh well - for turkey dinner 6000 miles away it was pretty good.

Colleen and her mom invited me to stay over with them at the Hilton Osaka. I am so grateful and thankful for the invitation; it made Thanksgiving more like Thanksgiving, if you get what I mean with the families and all. After dinner, we went back to the hotel and sat in the Executive Lounge, we munched on cookies and had coffee and wine. It was really just out of a movie. All that was missing was background music (or was there?)

So the next day, we went back to the Executive Lounge and had breakfast. MMM...I love continental breakfasts. I had granola, eggs, toast, apricots, some dim sum (as there was Japanese and Western breakfasts) and cappucino. After breakfast, Colleen's mom went for a swim and Colleen and I went exploring around the hotel and the adjacent shopping center. We both found an L.L.Bean; there is hardly any L.L. Bean stores (that I know of) in NYC and I find one in Osaka. Go figure. There was a toebag that I liked (the one that Ellen Pompeo's character uses in Grey's Anatomy) but I wanted to double check the price on the American website. It was about $10 cheaper in the United States; however, when you include tax and shipping costs, its about the same price. So it doesn't matter where I get it - so I might as well get it here. Maybe in January. I need a new tote bag for school regardless - my Herve Bag is ready to bite the dust. It's 5 years old, and is ripped on the inside. It did really well and I have taken it everywhere (Greece, London, now here) so it's time to put the French bag to rest.

After L.L.Bean, I said good bye to Colleen and her mom and met up with my Fordham friend, Mayuko. She is from Osaka, but came to the States for college. We hung out and walked all over Osaka - when we got really tired, we headed on back to Mayuko's house. She has alot of cats, but they were so cute! One of them was a orange himalayan, reminded me of Hermione's cat from Harry Potter, Crookshanks.

Amidst all the cooing over her cats, Mayuko asked me where I wanted to eat for dinner. We had ramen earlier at this really famous ramen restaurant. I told her that anything is good; I don't really know Osaka that well and since I heard it's pretty well known for the food I was game for almost anything.

"Do you know blowfish?"

I surely knew about blowfish. I knew that it was ridiculously expensive, somewhat POISONOUS if not prepared properly, and that restuarants needed a license to cook it. I was a bit uneasy about the whole prospect, but I figured why not - Mayuko has been eating it since she was a kid and she certainly isn't dead.

Mayuko's mom is sweet. We had alot of fun at the blowfish restuarant; it was a place that Mayuko's family has been going to for over 25 years - as her mom put it "Mayuko has been eating here since before she was born."

Eating blowfish is a process. There is a bowl of water with seaweed in it boling to make a stock for soup, and you put some of the blowfish and veggies in it - nabe. There is also blowfish sashimi: really thin pieces of raw blowfish. I was glancing at it a bit warily (raw fish that can kill you?) but her mom showed me that I can take the sashimi and swish it through the boiling soup, shabu-shabu style. So I did that for most of the sashimi. I was getting really full, and the shiitake mushrooms were amazing. I even tried a little bit of this sake that has bit of cooked blowfish in it (I think, or was it mushroom?) for flavor. It was really strong, just as strong as tsipuro.

The restuarant was really nice; very traditional, with private tatami rooms for eating upstairs in addition to the stools and bar downstairs for casual diners. The people that owned the restaurant lived behind the restaurant and knew Mayuko's family pretty well, I beleive. All in all it was a nice experience, and I know that this is something I would not have done if I had not known Mayuko.

Mayuko and her mom then dropped me off at the JR Osaka station and I headed back on home. Every time I take the JR, I have to ask someone to just double check if I am on the right platform - they do indicate it on the signs in both English and Japanese but for all the efficiency of the Japanese rail system, it is sure complicated. Took me about an hour and a half to get home - the streets in Kyoto were still crowded, but at least the but was only a half hour.

Udon, Udon

On her last day in Japan, Deena and I went to Osaka.

We namely wanted to see Osaka Castle. I wanted to go to the observation deck of the Umeda Sky building, but Deena is afraid of heights so we didn't go.

Had green tea (or matcha) ice cream! And it was soft serve...yum yum. I need to get matcha powder, so I can mix it with my dad's vanilla ice cream from the Mister Softee truck.

But to Osaka. Given that we didn't spend alot of time there, we didn;t had a good map and we were still tired, we didn't get to do much. However, at Osaka castle, we ran into a high school kendo match:



I think one of the high schoolers tried to talk to me. Deena does blend in a bit, but I stick out like a sore thumb.

Osaka Castle is a reproduction of the fortress that Hideyoshi Toyotomi built. So it's really a museum.

Afterwards, we walked around for a bit. Tried to get to Den-Den Town (eletronics district) but decided to go back to Kyoto - Deena wanted some souveniers, and I wanted to go back to Muji to get some more plastic boxes.

Had udon twice today. Lunch was tempura udon at Osaka castle and dinner was at this little cheap fast-food ish place where you put your money in a vending machine, get a ticket then sit anywhere. Had beef udon for only 390 yen! So cheap. and it was good. My tummy is happy.